Bring your engine back to peak performance with this Indmar Fuel Pump for your fuel injected engine. Worn fuel pumps rob power from your boat especially at high RPM's so help out your MasterCraft with this new fuel pump and give your boat what it thirsts for!
Indmar Fuel Pump On Engine For TBI, LT-1
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Add to Cart. Quick view. Johnson crankshaft mounted pump. New pump. Replace your worn block plug s regularly to speed up engine block drain time, It will come with a new fuel filter attached. To avoid fuel leaks it is best to also replace the Fuel Pump Customers Also Viewed. This tool makes quick work of removing the fuel lines from your in tank fuel pump.
Removing the MasterCraft Fuel Pump Gasket Replace your fuel pump gasket every time you replace your fuel filter on your in-tank pump to ensure a proper fit.The latest arsenal of GM crate engines includes the new LT series engines. The two most popular are the naturally aspirated LT1 and the supercharged LT4. In linear fashion…. In the OEM application, the low pressure fuel system is almost identical to the systems used in the LS based cars. From a practical standpoint, they are the same.
In linear fashion…. GM, and all the others. It will control the fuel module just like the OEM application. It will handle one fuel module well, but it is unknown if it can support multiple modules. All of the aftermarket engine controllers do not have a built in FPPM. For these applications a VaporWorx PWM system has shown to work well in single and dual fuel module applications with or without voltage boosters. For flowrates, be wary of the instructions provided by GM.
As of Dec. The GM fueling specification for the LT1 is 45gph. This is not the first time GM specified the incorrect fuel specifications for their crate engines. The LSA had two incorrect versions before issuing the correct, but difficult to perform, fueling specifications.
The pumping sections of the Gen 5 and Gen6 Camaro are identical with the same flowrates, so choose the pump that suits the chassis best. For most all applications, the Gen5 ZL1 fits best and has fewer changes necessary to make work properly.
The Cadillac CTS-V2 — fuel module does not have the capability to feed 72psi to the high pressure side. It is limited to 65psi due to the safety pressure relief valve built in to the module. DeatchWerks does have a high-pressure relief valve available that increase the safety relief pressure to over 75psi. Adding more power to the LT4 can become a problem. So the question becomes, what to do? It may become overloaded. VaporWorx has a dual fuel module controller for these needs.Racetronix RXP pumps use new turbine technology to reduce pump noise, improve reliability and provide enhanced compatibility with Ethanol enhanced fuels.
This pump and harness combination will typically support flywheel horsepower using factory lines. This keeps the bucket full at all times and the pump fully immersed in fuel regardless of the tank level so that when the tank is low on gas and you are doing some hard cornering or acceleration the pump does not run dry and start aerating air bubbles the fuel. This happens as the fuel sloshes from side to side in the tank leaving the center low on fuel.
The F-LT1 cars have minimal to no baffling in them. This can cause detonation and possible engine damage. The bucket also allows the car to operate with lower fuel levels in the tank due to its scavenging effect.
The bucket can also effect motor cranking time as the priming time is reduced under certain conditions. The return line from the fuel pressure regulator is diverted back into the bucket via a filter sock inside so that the unused fuel also helps keep the bucket full at all times. Keeping the pump constantly immersed in gas within the bucket can extend the pump's life by not allowing it to be exposed to open air.
The Racetronix pump assembly is modified so that it will seal in the buckets rubber check-valve so that its function is retained. This hose is important as when the fuel module is placed back in the tank it must pivot which can cause the rubber hose to kink.
This fuel tube is much more resistant to the solvents in today's gas and it will not crack, split, swell and collapse like a rubber hose. The standard Walbro kit comes with a short length of rated rubber hose. This harness has a pump connector at one end and GM pins at the other which fit directly inside the factory connector. The Racetronix harness replaces all these questionable components. The standard Walbro kit comes with a plastic coated in-line wiring adapter.
This adapter must plug into the existing questionable factory in-tank wiring thereby adding additional connections and length. High performance fuel pumps need a good power source in order to perform to their full potential.
On average a Walbro high-performance fuel pump requires twice as much power as a factory fuel pump. Factory wiring is just enough for a factory pumps power requirements because manufacturers need to save cost and weight.There should be enough here to get you going in the right direction. Some of these I have pictures of completed harnesses I have modified for easy installation.
I have a lot of pictures so please be patient and let them load. If you find this information useful, or have suggestion on something to add, let me knowI will try to get it done. My goal is to help the hobbyist to be able to complete a harness transformation by them self.
I would only hope you send the PCM to me when it comes time for it. I do not charge for ANY information. Sample schematic similar to what you may see in the following pages. This may help you to learn how to read the schematics. For parts list for fuse block, obd2 diagnostic port, and wiring instructions, click here! Typical 'External' Connections This is so the PCM can remember learned information about the engine over time.
This includes idle control, fuel trims, and transmission adapts. This is what 'powers up' the PCM. Even the COIL wire on some of those went dead when cranking. After cranking, power was restored to the coil through a resistor, lowering voltage to 6 volts. The signal is only present for two seconds at key on.
Fuel pump operation resumes when cranking over. So, if there is a condition where there is a bad crank sensor, fuel pump will come on, turn off, and will not turn on when cranking. However, the signal needed is opposite how you're brake lights work. If you vehicle was equipped with a lockup trans to begin with, you probably already have the proper normally closed switch mounted by your brake light switch. If you do not, you can use a relay to perform the same thing.
There are then a normally open leg and a normally closed leg on the relay and a supply. PCM can be programmed to match tire size and axle ratio for you're swap, so this signal is calibrated. The stock LS tach signal is 4 cylinder type signal. This can be programmed as 4, 6, or 8 cylinder signal. How to wire up a fan relay Relay coil draws less then 1 amp. Make sure the ground for the cooling fan is a good one, also ensure there is a good ground from the battery - side to the frame.
This uses a 5 terminal relay for the on on the right in this schematic. When the HIGH speed kicks in, it removes power from the first relay. This prevents power from being applied to both wires of the fan at the same time. Here are some pictures of a typical automotive relay that can be found at most parts stores.See all 41 photos. The Gen-V LT-series engines are a little bit different from the LS series, particularly in the fuel system department.
All LT-series engines are direct-injection, meaning the fuel is pressurized between 2, and 2,psi 2, for LT1, 2, for LT4and injected directly into the combustion chamber, much like a diesel engine. DI engines have much greater fuel economy because the ECM has far better control of how much fuel is being burned. To supply fuel to the high-pressure direct injection system, there are two fuel pumps, an electric supply pump in the tank and a mechanical pressure pump underneath the intake.
The mechanical pressure pump runs off a tri-lobe wing on the camshaft. Aftermarket upgrades to bolster fuel flow can be made through the camshaft. Comp Cams offers cams with extra and different shaped fuel pump lobes which can increase fuel flow as much as 74 percent. The electric supply pump in the gas tank is different from a standard electric pump as well.
Instead of a basic fuel pump and regulator, the factory supply pump is controlled by the ECM through a fuel pump module to control the base fuel pressure as it reaches the mechanical DI fuel pump.
A special pressure sensor in the fuel line monitors the pressure of the fuel, which is maintained at 72 PSI at 45 GPH. Essentially, the ECM switches the voltage and current sent to the pump on and off at a very fast rate to control the speed of the pump, ensuring full pressure at all times with no delays. With a typical electric fuel pump, when you romp on the throttle, there is quick surge in fuel flow followed by a lull as the pump recovers from the sudden loss in pressure.
If plumbed properly, a port-injected engine won't see too much performance drop from this scenario. In a DI engine, this would cause a serious issue as the mechanical pump needs full pressure at all times to maintain the 2,plus PSI needed to correctly operate.
This complicates the fuel system for the LT-series engine swap. You can't use just any old fuel pump. DI fuel pumps have to be PWM capable, and not all electric fuel pumps are. Another factor is that the LT fuel system is returnless; this was done to keep the fuel temperature down. Because hot fuel does not cycle through the pump, to the engine, and back to the tank, the fuel temp remains even. Returnless fuel pumps are rarely suitable for EFI use without PWM control, and the ones that are available cannot support the type of pressure and flow needed for an LT.
So where does that leave us for LT swaps? Many swappers already have an existing electronic fuel system in their vehicle. Swapping an LT into that scenario could mean buying new parts, but all is not lost. That is fairly high for a continuous-use street pump, so make sure your pump is capable of providing the required flow and pressure. The duty cycle of that pressure and flow rate will certainly be high and the lifespan of the pump will be quite low. This means you need a much larger fuel pump to supply the engine with enough fuel to operate.
You will suffer from hard starting along with drivability and hot fuel issues. Switching to the PWM system gives you greater control. Installing the PWM controller is simple plug-and-play, but the fuel pressure sensor and fuel pump wiring is a bit tricky.
First, you need an inline adapter with a pressure sensor port positioned between 5- and degrees to the horizontal flow of fuel, according to the GM manual for the fuel controller. This is fairly easy, as there are plenty of these fuel sensor adapters out there. At this point, there is no commercially available sensor adapter for the LT-series pressure sensor. What you can find easily is a -6 AN male to 10mm adapter.While the LT1s actually have a pretty decent fuel pump and pickup assembly design, age is starting to hit them.
When Greg Lovell needed to do a Racetronix fuel pump swap on his famous LT1 Formula, known as the Dirty Bird although Greg has since sold the carwe had to be there.
The inlet for the fill-bucket and check-valve system, in combination with the fuel pump, are made to suck gas from the bottom of the tank.
This design keeps the bucket full and the pump constantly immersed in gas, regardless of the fuel level. The characteristics of this pump make it more capable of handling modern fuels, and handle more horsepower. Racetronix RXP pumps use new turbine technology to reduce pump noise, improve reliability and provide enhanced compatibility with Ethanol enhanced fuels.
This pump and harness combination will typically support flywheel horsepower. These harnesses are considered to be some of the best out there, and Racetronix spares no expense in their production. Greg Lovell and Kyle Miller are the masterminds and muscle behind, and in front of, the camera, and this is what we learned during the installation….
Getting to the fuel pump is the obvious first step. At this point, the exhaust system comes down, the pan hard rod is unbolted, and the fuel tank is very carefully pulled down.
The assembly comes out easily at this point. The zip ties around the foam gasket at the top of the new fuel pump from Racetronix are removed, and the new o-ring for the sending unit is prepared for installation. The seal is an important piece that keeps out debris and moisture from the tank and fuel system. Making sure the o-ring is seated firmly and well-lubricated is imperative. After this, the new fuel pump is placed.
A bead of the glue that came with the pump is run around the edge of the bucket. The installers are careful not to overdo it with the glue, that would cause it to drip everywhere. Using a soldering iron, the plastic is tacked in a few places to hold it in place until the glue sets.
Heavy duty tape or ties work too — they will keep the bucket shut until the glue can do its job. Time is a good investment here, leaving the glue to set overnight to get the best bond is worth the break. Racetronix recommends a minimum of three hours drying time at room temperature, but the more the better.
Sometimes, a little silicone grease is needed if the connection is tight. After that, the gear clamp is tightened without tightening it to the point where it begins to distort. The relay and ground lead for the chassis are mounted together on the bolt as shown here. The bolt is found just in front of the rear tire on the drivers side. We use the provided silicone grease packet to coat the head of the bolt, threads, and ground lead — this will prevent corrosion on down the road.
Plug in the connectors and connector locks like the above picture shows.
F-body LT1 5.7L Fuel Pump & Wiring Harness Kit, Racetronix
The sending unit plugs into the Racetronix harness and that plugs into the chassis connector. Mount the fuse holder to the back of the alternator using the large bolt with the washers provided in the Racetronix kit. Connect the lead for the power to output stud on the alternator — to prevent corrosion, use some silicone grease. After securing all of the wires, the job is done!
The keys to both the pump swap and wiring harness installation are taking your time and following the instructions that comes with the kit, precisely!
LT1's Fuel System Modification - Project Snowball, Part III
Regardless of any advice you find on the internet, the manufacturer knows best, and they can also easily tell when you did something that will void the warranty. Most of us will only tackle a fuel pump once or twice in our lives per project car, anywayso you can spare the time to do it right.Starting at the driver-side frame rail is the easiest route to fueling your LT1.
The kit includes 14 and 16mm metric O-ring-to -6 AN adapters part No. All of the parts appeared well engineered with obvious attention to detail. Both Pure Choice and Aeromotive stressed changes in fuel additives in If you don't use the appropriate fuel system components, the new fuels will eat right through the lines. Pure Choice addresses these issues with its Teflon braided line. For many of us, our first engine upgrades involved saving up for a Holley carb and intake--we sure didn't have money left over for fancy braided steel lines and aluminum fittings, nor did we need them.
A couple of hose clamps and some rubber fuel line was all it took to feed that Holley. With the advent of fuel injection, fuel lines and fittings are no longer an afterthought.
High pressure AN or O-ring fittings and plastic or Teflon lines have replaced hose clamps and rubber lines that fall apart from high pressure and modern fuel additives.
Dirty Bird Fuel Pump Swap: Installing a LT1 Racetronix Pump
While the LT1's push-connect fuel line fittings may simplify the assembly process for GM, they can easily confuse the rest of us. For Project Snowball, I chose to cut the fittings off the ends of the fuel rails and weld on AN fittings. Converting directly to AN allows me to use an external adjustable regulator from Aeromotive, which just looks cool. I realize not everyone would want or need to take such drastic measures, so I will also cover a much simpler and quicker approach using adapter fittings from Pure Choice Motorsports.
While I had a basic idea of what I needed to set up my fuel lines and fuel system, a call to Pure Choice made routing the fuel system a pleasure. Before I started this project I spent a good deal of time talking to Brett Clow over at Aeromotive about possible fuel system upgrades. According to Brett, the LT1 has excellent fuel rails, but fuel pressure and flow consistency starts to suffer above horsepower as Chevrolet plumbed the rails in series.
While Brett admitted there are cars making more than horsepower in stock configuration, those same engines could make even more power if they were converted to a parallel system such that each rail is supplied with fuel independently. Because I may add more power later, I chose to run my fuel rails in series, but upgrade to AN fittings and an external regulator so I would be ready to run a parallel system later.
While bumping up fuel pressure will only give temporary horsepower gains on an LT1, an Aeromotive regulator will allow you to run the optimum pressure for a given injector, connect an Auto Meter fuel pressure gauge, provide consistent pressure and look good doing it. In addition to setting up an external regulator, I'm going to cover Aeromotive's on-rail regulator part No.
As my car was originally a TPI car I am going to use the factory fuel pump. In order to supply the LT1 with its required fuel pressure, you TBI and carburetor types will have to upgrade your pumps. To round out this round of upgrades, a BBK 58mm throttle body came from the Summit Racing catalog and a fuel injection pressure gauge came from Auto Meter. Can we turn a pile of parts into a whole car in one week? A collection of Camaro products any gearhead would like to own.
Treat your classic Corvette to a professional dyno shop super tune.